Wheel

Blue (1 card)

• Scroll of the Ambushing Clones Sorcery Put X 1/1 Green Ninja Phantoms into play.
  Aspire (If this is in your hand you may pay and shuffle this card into your library, if you do draw a card and you gain an emblem that says “Your Scroll of Explosive Chakra’s cost less to play.”) 7/24

Black (2 cards)

• Scoll of Infinite Possibilities Instant For each mana paid for , choose one: Draw a card or tap target permanent.
  Aspire (If this is in your hand you may pay and shuffle this card into your library, if you do draw a card and you gain an emblem that says “Your Scroll of Explosive Chakra’s cost less to play.”) 9/24
• Scroll Keeper Creature — Ninja Human When Scroll Keeper enters the battlefield, you may search you library for a card with Aspire, reveal it, and put it into your hand. 1/3 10/24

Red (1 card)

• Scroll of the Eveloping Swarm Sorcery Destroy X target Ninjas.
  
  Aspire (If this is in your hand you may pay and shuffle this card into your library, if you do draw a card and you gain an emblem that says “Your Scroll of Explosive Chakra’s cost less to play.”) 12/24

Green (1 card)

• Scroll of Explosive Chakra Sorcery Deal X damage to target creature or player. Aspire (If this is in your hand you may pay 2 and shuffle this card into your library, if you do draw a card and you gain an emblem that says “Your Scroll of Explosive Chakra’s cost 2 less to play.”) 13/24

Multicolor (1 card)

• Scroll of Flourishing Growth Gain X life. Add X Green mana to your mana pool.
  
  Aspire (If this is in your hand you may pay and shuffle this card into your library, if you do draw a card and you gain an emblem that says “Your Scroll of Explosive Chakra’s cost less to play.”) 15/24

New Updates coming soon.

Sorry for the time off. Real job has been getting to me.

Expect a new feature as well as new educational content!

FUCK Magic - How to Value Cards in Limited Magic The Gathering

I've had some people express a little confusion with the point-value of cards in reference to my examples last post. Rather than later, I decided it would be a good idea to do a breakdown of this concept now just in case it comes up again later.

Mathematical!

As much as I like to avoid it, mathing is an essential part of magic. It's obvious that one must be able to add and subtract from 20 to some degree, but before you even begin playing there are much more intimidating figures to calculate.

(This section refers to Game Theory #1 in the "Value of Cards" portion.)

Back to Basics

A ratio is a set of numbers that are proportionately valued.

Ex.

You compulsively buy 2 packs of cards for every 1 game you lose.

Every time you buy 2 packs, you purposely lose 2 games.

Your "packs bought" to "games lost" ratio is 2:1

You lose 5 games.

Because of your 2:1 ratio, you compulsively buy 10 packs.

Now where were we?

Now that you've had a little refresher course, I'll show you why I decided to give you 7th grade math-class flashbacks.

In order to help visualize the concept of card's point values, lets pretend that each card is worth actual dollars. The goal of any given draft is to have the highest dollar amount.

Here is a breakdown of general card values:

Creature - Cost effective with no drawbacks = 1$

Ex. Nessian Course

Enchantment - Cost effective with high likelihood of use = 1$

Ex. Into the Wild

Artifact = Cost effective with high-likelihood of use. = 1$

Ex. Bonesplitter

Sorcery - Provides 1$ benefit to user or 1$ loss to opponent.

Ex. Doom Blade

Instant - Provides 1$ benefit to user or 1$ loss to opponent.

Ex. Advent of the Wurm

This is a great way to consider a baseline value for cards, in order to judge the value of other cards on your own.

1-for-1

When you hear someone refer to a 'playable' during a limited event, it is most likely that they are referring to a card that is (at least) a 1-for-1. 

A 1-for-1 is a card that costs 1$ and either gains that 1$ back or takes 1$ from your opponent.

This is where you get your 1:1 ratio. Every time you play that 1$ card, it costs the opponent 1$ to deal with.

Creatures with no abilities and cards with minor abilities that also allow for a draw are considered to be 1-for-1's.

2-for-1

When someone refers to a 2-for-1 during limited, they are referring to a single card that has a 2$ value.

Similarly, in order for an opponent to deal with this card it costs them 2$

Ex, Strangleroot Geist

Because Strangleroot comes back the first time it dies and must die a second time in order to be removed from consideration, it is a strict 2-for-1. This one card costs 2$ for an opponent to deal with, and therefor has a full 2$

X-for-Y

Unfortunately the complexity to calculating these values isn't static. (It doesn't stay the same) Cards are usually worth somewhere between 1 and 2, and almost never easy to calculate its exact value. 

So in order to value a card accurately it requires keen  information gathering and critical problem-solving. Check out Game Theory #1 in order to get more information on how to value these cards on the fly.

Thanks to all of my readers so far! 

Please share, tweet, and plus the posts you enjoy.

 I'll send nothing but good karma your way!

FUCK Magic - Game Theory #1 - "Pack 9"

This weekend at my local draft I received several inquiries as to how to avoid an unwanted third color and how to establish a higher consistency in terms of deck quality. I found it was difficult to explain the complex economics involved, yet alone the psychological elements involved in terms of the players at the table.

So rather than expound upon the information in such a way that it is overwhelming, I hope to demonstrate  simple and more easily applicable models to develop a foundation for further understanding of Game Theory in terms of magic.

Pack 9

There you are. It's a Friday night at your local shop and you've got a bottle of coke and clean socks on. You left the house ready to take on the world. 

Yet, here you sit balls deep in six colors, and you're not sure how to dig out of your pile. Stay calm. Assuming you're not staring at a stack of  Scornful Egotists, you're right where you want to be.

Let's see how we got here:

Maybe you took that Hero's downfall first pack and followed up with a second pick Grey Merchant, only to get cut off completely from black for the remainder of the pack. Regardless of which colors you've got your hopes behind, it's time for Pack 9 and your preference no longer matters. (sorry)

Why Pack 9?

This is the pack with your most easily read signal, in terms of which color(s) are/is open.
The reason why seems relatively obvious: That the pack has now seen each player, and the leftovers start with you.

What now?

It's Pack 9 and your looking at six un-loved cards. More importantly, you see two playable possibilities still there.

Consider the Implications.

The obvious process is to remember which cards were in your original pack, then choose one of your two playables based upon your most prolific color so far.

And I'm here to tell you that's not enough.

Let's consider some of the factors involved in this choice aside from simple mathematics:

Players at the table

This is a consideration of the personalities at the table. (See Identify #1) 

Look to the left and the right. If there is a Master Splinter present be mindful that they're likely reading the signals correctly and that a late color switch will harm you both. This means you need to consider the second most powerful pick in your first pack (and 8th pack, but that's for another time) and assume that they took that as a strong signal that you're not in a certain color or archetype.

If you can identify a Leonardo, remember their tendency towards control type archetypes. For instance: In Theros draft they may have a tendency towards black/blue. Be mindful of this decision because it may impact whether you're being cut in first or second pack.

If you're choosing between two cards, one of which is a combo-enabler, be on the lookout for a Donatello at your table. It's likely that he's after the same combo pieces you are. But since he's had his eyes on combo since before the draft began, his pile is likely to be much cuter than yours.

Raphael has a tendency towards aggressive-type decks. (A let's get this over with mentality) Rather than consider which colors they may be entering, it is more important to consider which picks may contribute or detract from their potentially aggressive archetype.

And always know where your Michelangelo are. They're more likely than anyone to rare/value draft. If you're hoping to wheel (receive your starting pack again), you had better hope they don't need it for their casual deck. It is good to keep in mind that poor signals can be transmitted from these types of players, but know that the signals generally clear up by second pack. (they've decided their favorite)

Value of Cards

If you've heard the term "2-for-1" or "2-for" in a game, it likely implies that the player is receiving the benefit of two cards. (Using 1 card to destroy or deactivate 2 of the opponents cards.)

It may seem like common sense, but drafting with the thought of these points in mind can be key to know which pick is valuable. This is easy with any card that has a whole value (like 2-for-1), but to reach that next level you need to be able to value cards with harder to determine advantages.

For instance:
I consider Hopeful Eidolon to have a value of 1.25 in my first-pick first-pack. This means that alone I consider it to be a 1.25-for-1. This is because it is at least a 1-for-1 (because one piece of removal is required to kill it) with the potential to be bestowed for extra value, accounting for the extra .25.

Now it's Pick 9 and I see the same Eidolon, it's value has changed depending upon what I've taken. If I am likely to play way, suddenly Eidolon jumps to a full 2-for-1 for me. Its guaranteed playability in my deck in addition to the potential life gained (It's harder to attribute an exact point value for life-gain.)

Flavor of the Week

This is easy if you play at a venue regularly. Find out which cards or archetypes have been popular. For instance, my shop is loaded with Grey Merchant fan-boys and Minotards. Therefore if a recent tournament win is had by one of those types, I know they are likely to be hated by others at the table and I can plan accordingly.

Bias Recognition

Learn your subconscious preferences in any given limited environment. I have a poor tendency to want to play dinosaurs (Big vanilla [usually green] creatures) In order to compensate for a known bias I have, I actively lower the value of these types of cards. (In my mind)

This means that if think Nessian Asp is a 5-for-1, I will lower to a 1.75-for-1 because I know my bias may be interfering.

Anticipated Picks

This requires knowledge of the set you're drafting. If it is Pack 9 and you're deciding between playables, consider each card that would enable or act as a catalyst for your potential pick. If one is heavily enable by only a few rares and possibly an uncommon, you may be better off choosing the card that is mildly enabled by different commons because of their likely who to be present in later packs.

The point of listing some (not all) of the effecting  forces is to express that there is no 'right' or correct pick in an objective sense. As Game Theory infers, because the rules (Player make-up and positioning, as well as previous picks) aren't determined until you're in actually in the situation, there is no way to optimally make a decision until all those rules are in place.

So rather than tell you what the right pick is/was, I hope to convey the importance of considering  all of the impacting factors. Pack 9 is just a great starting point because it is the easiest to read. So start at Pack 9 and then apply those critical considerations during each pack!

FUCK Magic - Infect - "Identify" #1

"If you know the enemy and know yourself you need not fear the results of a hundred battles."

-Sun Tzu's Art of War

Identifying your opponents personality and how it relates to there play-style can be the key to developing your overall strategy at a given limited event. Knowing a persons propensity towards selecting a certain color or archetype is obvious in its advantages but few players I've encountered seem to realize the ability to gain insight to this information before the event has even begun. This is where the psychological analysis of your opponent begins.

 To get an idea of what I mean, lets simplify players into five types, and to make it even more relate-able, let's pretend they're Ninja Turtles:

Leonardo:

Leonardo is that person you know who is often trying to force blue. More generally though, this is the person who loves to control the board and have card advantage. General these people are the most calm customers in the room.

Donatello:

Much like the animated counterpart, in Magic: The Gathering limited your Donatello's always have their eye on valuable card combinations. This person can be noticed by their propensity to get much more excited than they should be about a given card.

Michelangelo:

We all have Michelangelo that we play with. This guy is not great at what he does (playing magic), but his love for the game and general optimism make him great to have around. Be nice to this person, because in addition to making the environment friendlier, they also inevitably increase the prize pull.

Raphael:

A hardened veteran but with a visibly rough side can be characterized by a dual expression of both love and hate of magic. This person can be intimidating and skillful, because of their knowledge of the game and quick reactions to opponent's plays. This person tends to be characterized by impatience.

and for the sake of explanation...

Master Splinter:

The top tier of players who have developed such a profound understanding of magic, that they're aware of all of their actions in terms of how their game(s) may be effected. This requires the ability to override one's subconscious preferences in archetypes, color and so forth. This aspect will be explored later on in more detail, but this is your goal in terms of combining the aspects of the Ninja Turtles in order to optimize your abilities.

Go Ninja, Go Ninja, Go.

Go to your local draft and see which of your friends and foes most closely resemble which Ninja Turtle, and watch as you start noticing further similarities in their behavior. Each of these characters will be more closely explored in upcoming FUCK Magic portions as time passes.

If you like what you've read please share, +, like, RT, or consult your family physician. Questions and comments always welcome!

FUCK Magic - Introduction to Infect

I've often had people express curiosity at my ability maintain a dominating presence in draft and sealed formats, dispite my disinterest in (all) constructed formats. Grossing approximately 1200 cash earning after expenses last year, I've been able to sustain my hobby while contributing to a little pocket money.

My hope, through the FUCK Magic portions of this blog, is to illustrate what I consider to be the most important and least addressed issues involved with (but not limited to!) Magic: The Gathering.

The key to understanding limited comes with the understanding of how much your environment matters to your match. We can all memorize which pick in a given pack has the most value, but to "read" signals and gain advantage beyond the limit of your cards is a much more complex process altogether.  To gain this it involves a complex understanding of human psychology and physiology in terms of a specific setting at a given time. But to simplify the concept, remember the acronym INFECT.

Indentify

Identify your competitors personality. This involves observation of their habits, and if the information is available, their play style. Keep in mind to consider their non-MTG related traits and see if you can gauge playstyle information from this. The "Identify" portions of FUCK Magic will explore how to gain this information as well as typical personas involved in the Magic: The Gathering scene.

 

Navigate
 

Navigate the venue in order to familiarize yourself with local customs or quirks. Know how strictly rules are enforced, any variations of play or tournament style, and player heirarchy. (Believe it or not, I recently played at a venue in which they offered 'free' [7 card mulligan] if you revealed a hand with no lands in it.)

Factor

 

Factor in the different personality types present, tournament cost, and  in order to optimize the effect of your actions on them. This is a more critical type of information gathering than Identifying. Using your best estimates gauge which personalities will dominate the field and how to cope. The Factor portions of this blog will detail the cost-benefit analysis in terms of the many economic factors used in order to profit.

Evolve

 

Evolve into a persona or presentation of self which provides the largest advantage. The way you present yourself to your competitors will have subtle but relevant effect on your games. Evolve portions will largely explore effect personality adjustments, as well as tips on how to manipulate your opponent's play.

 

Create
 

Create an environment which either further suits your needs or restrict your opponents, to the extent the rules allow. Create will explore the many possibilities that few players can utilize in terms of creating or manipulating the environment in ways that will effect your opponent. WARNING: Leave your ethics at the door.

Transfer
 

Transfer knowledge gained to future INFECTs. The process of understanding of how a person reacts to any situation in major is a comprehensive one. The Transfer section will analyze and "INFECT" a real-life player example.

These aspects will be a large focus in upcoming posts! So stay tuned for further information that will help you FUCK your opponent into submission.